The [Foundry Paint System](http://www.wargamesfoundry.com/paint/) has been available for quite some time now. For those of you not aware of it -- it's basically a line of paints (_specially formulated for miniatures_ of course, meaning there's more and more finely ground pigment in it than in regular acrylic paint) with a twist; the twist being that they come in sets of three: a shade, base and highlight colour.
The idea is that these paints will help you paint in the 'Foundry' style, i.e. the classic high contrast three shade layering, by providing you with matched colours, obleviating the need for mixing. I use this method of painting (and have been for quite a while before it became so popular), but tend to go easier on the contrast in my paint jobs than the [Dallimore](http://www.kevindallimore.co.uk/) - [Dean](http://www.steve-dean.co.uk/) school of painters.
I have not used any of the Foundry paints so far, so I cannot comment on their consistency, ease of application or covering power (three oft discussed qualities on miniature painting related mailgroups and websites). I do have some thoughts on the idea of providing matched sets. I have mixed feelings about this.
On the one hand, I like the idea of being able to buy paint and being reasonably sure that they will work together for my painting style. Although I have a fairly good 'feel' for colours, and can usually tell whether sets of colours will work together, there are the occasional misses, which should no longer be there with the Foundry paints. Having the highlight colour available also means there's no more mixing (I usually pick a shade and base colour from my paints and mix up the highlight from the base colour).
On the other hand, not having to mix the highlight colour can be a bit of a mixed blessing (_sic_. Those of you not accustomed to my brand of humour can consider themselves warned now). I usually mix the highlight by adding either white or beige (beige for the warm colours, white for the cool colours, in general), so that I get both a lighter _and a less saturated_ version of the base colour. This last bit is important, as most of the stuff that I paint (virtually all, even) comes from time periods before there was anything like the kind of dyes used today for clothing, meaning that the vast majority of clothing would be drab and washed out looking. This is simulated by the weakly saturated colours. Mixing by hand also means that you can vary the colour from figure to figure, which for most non-uniformed (and even most uniformed) figures will add a touch of realism.
On the gripping hand, selling paints in sets of three (and they're packaged by the two sets, so you buy six in one go) that are effectively unseperable can also be considered as a genius marketing ploy by the Foundry, if you were to be the cynical type.
So, in general, I'm not running white-hot for the FPS, but I think I will pick up some of the more 'difficult' colour combinations (reds, to name one, although I have found that mixing with flesh instead of red is a great way of mixing up the highlight for reds) some time in the future.
Wednesday, 25 August 2004
Tuesday, 24 August 2004
Painting station
I used to have a room apart in the house for my painting desk. In the new house that's currently being built, I will have a wargame room to myself again. Nowadays, however, I paint on a movable painting station, as the room I used to paint in, and that still houses my 'official' painting desk, is now our daughter's bedroom.
When Britt started to sleep in her bedroom, instead of in her cot downstairs, I decided to make my painting area transportable. I had seen [Games Workshop](http://uk.games-workshop.com "Games Workshop")'s [painting station](http://uk.games-workshop.com/storefront/store.uk?do=Individual&code=99239999018&orignav=9) at Phil's, and initially thought of buying that, but in the end decided to 'build' my own. I say build in quotes, because my painting station is simply a piece of 8mm MDF:
As you can see, the thing is basically a square piece of MDF (about 70cm to a side), with all my painting stuff on top of it. Very basic, really. The only out of the ordinary thing about it is that the empty herb pots that hold my brushes are glued to the board, so that they don't easily get knocked over or thrown off during transport. Otherwise, everything is simply put onto the board: paints in one part of an old lunch bread box, work in progress miniatures in another part, water in two containers (dirty and clean water) that are officially cacao powder shakers for capuccino, an ice cream box lid that used to be white but is now multi-hued as the
result of five odd years of use as paint palette, and some kitchen towels to wipe excess water and paint off of the brushes.
Whenever I feel the urge to paint, I go down to the cellar (where I keep the thing), bring up this board, put it on the kitchen table and start painting. I had not quite expected this, but I find that I like painting this way better than sitting apart in a room in the house and paint there. Like this, I'm in (largely) the same room as my wife or daughter (although she's usually asleep by the time I get painting in the evening). This makes it possible to paint and still talk to my wife (albeit in a limited fashion -- I'm male, meaning that my ability to do two things at the same time is, not to put too fine a point on it, inexistant) or listen to the TV background noise and generally feel more a part of things happening around me.
I like this way of painting so much that I'm thinking to continue working like this when we have moved in the new house, where I'll have a wargames room with a painting desk. We'll see.
When Britt started to sleep in her bedroom, instead of in her cot downstairs, I decided to make my painting area transportable. I had seen [Games Workshop](http://uk.games-workshop.com "Games Workshop")'s [painting station](http://uk.games-workshop.com/storefront/store.uk?do=Individual&code=99239999018&orignav=9) at Phil's, and initially thought of buying that, but in the end decided to 'build' my own. I say build in quotes, because my painting station is simply a piece of 8mm MDF:
As you can see, the thing is basically a square piece of MDF (about 70cm to a side), with all my painting stuff on top of it. Very basic, really. The only out of the ordinary thing about it is that the empty herb pots that hold my brushes are glued to the board, so that they don't easily get knocked over or thrown off during transport. Otherwise, everything is simply put onto the board: paints in one part of an old lunch bread box, work in progress miniatures in another part, water in two containers (dirty and clean water) that are officially cacao powder shakers for capuccino, an ice cream box lid that used to be white but is now multi-hued as the
result of five odd years of use as paint palette, and some kitchen towels to wipe excess water and paint off of the brushes.
Whenever I feel the urge to paint, I go down to the cellar (where I keep the thing), bring up this board, put it on the kitchen table and start painting. I had not quite expected this, but I find that I like painting this way better than sitting apart in a room in the house and paint there. Like this, I'm in (largely) the same room as my wife or daughter (although she's usually asleep by the time I get painting in the evening). This makes it possible to paint and still talk to my wife (albeit in a limited fashion -- I'm male, meaning that my ability to do two things at the same time is, not to put too fine a point on it, inexistant) or listen to the TV background noise and generally feel more a part of things happening around me.
I like this way of painting so much that I'm thinking to continue working like this when we have moved in the new house, where I'll have a wargames room with a painting desk. We'll see.
Wednesday, 18 August 2004
Full Thrust Miniatures
I got an email in my guise as [Schild en Vriend](http://www.nirya.be/snv) webmaster, asking about which models we used for our [Full Thrust](http://www.nirya.be/snv/FT/ft.html) games. As this might be useful for more people, here's what I answered:
>> However, I was wondering if you please could tell me what models you've
>> been using, and where you got them?
>
>We've been using a number of manufacturer's models. GZG is one (e.g. the
>Tolstoy, mentioned in the campaign, is the big ESU dreadnought by GZG), but
>there are a lot of others:
>
>AOG's Babylon Five miniatures: AOG (Agents of Gaming) seem to have gone
>bust, but this site claims to have found a source:
>
>[AOG Babylon 5 minis](http://www.uncomyngifts.com/Main/Recreation_Room/Babylon-5/Game_Supplies/Babylon5Wars/Miniatures/)
>
>ICE Silent Death figures: there are many stores that sell these, but
>here's the manufacturers site:
>
>[ICE Silent Death](http://store.ironcrown.com/category.jsp?category=2043)
>
>Be sure to order the metal ones, the resin ones are huge (3 times the
>size of the metal ones, or around 10 inches)
>
>Irregular Miniatures: this is a miniature manufacturer in the UK doing
>all kinds of figures and scales, including spaceships (though they're
>basic - to get an idea: the Morgenes and most of Fleet Section 408 as
>pictured on our web page are Irregulars):
>
>[Irregular Miniatures](http://www.irregularminiatures.co.uk)
>
>The spaceships are listed in the 6mm section of the catalog.
BTW, that's [GZG'z online store](http://www.gtns.net/gzg/) mentioned in the first paragraph.
>> However, I was wondering if you please could tell me what models you've
>> been using, and where you got them?
>
>We've been using a number of manufacturer's models. GZG is one (e.g. the
>Tolstoy, mentioned in the campaign, is the big ESU dreadnought by GZG), but
>there are a lot of others:
>
>AOG's Babylon Five miniatures: AOG (Agents of Gaming) seem to have gone
>bust, but this site claims to have found a source:
>
>[AOG Babylon 5 minis](http://www.uncomyngifts.com/Main/Recreation_Room/Babylon-5/Game_Supplies/Babylon5Wars/Miniatures/)
>
>ICE Silent Death figures: there are many stores that sell these, but
>here's the manufacturers site:
>
>[ICE Silent Death](http://store.ironcrown.com/category.jsp?category=2043)
>
>Be sure to order the metal ones, the resin ones are huge (3 times the
>size of the metal ones, or around 10 inches)
>
>Irregular Miniatures: this is a miniature manufacturer in the UK doing
>all kinds of figures and scales, including spaceships (though they're
>basic - to get an idea: the Morgenes and most of Fleet Section 408 as
>pictured on our web page are Irregulars):
>
>[Irregular Miniatures](http://www.irregularminiatures.co.uk)
>
>The spaceships are listed in the 6mm section of the catalog.
BTW, that's [GZG'z online store](http://www.gtns.net/gzg/) mentioned in the first paragraph.
Ancient history
For those of you with a nostalgic streak (and years of experience as ancients wargamers), Sue Laflin Barker has put up a webpage with the scanned in [early versions of WRG rules](http://www.wrg.me.uk/wrg.html).
For someone like me, who has come into wargaming in its golden years, the fact that the staple figures [seemed to be](http://www.wrg.me.uk/Wrg-A1/Page11.html) the various Airfix plastic sets, is quite refreshing :). In true [Ourobouros](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ourobouros) fashion, it seems that in these days of figure cornucopia, history has turned around on itself and recreated [gaming with soft plastic 1:72nd scale figures](http://www.geocities.com/TimesSquare/Ring/8582/index.html) as a sub hobby on itself.
For someone like me, who has come into wargaming in its golden years, the fact that the staple figures [seemed to be](http://www.wrg.me.uk/Wrg-A1/Page11.html) the various Airfix plastic sets, is quite refreshing :). In true [Ourobouros](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ourobouros) fashion, it seems that in these days of figure cornucopia, history has turned around on itself and recreated [gaming with soft plastic 1:72nd scale figures](http://www.geocities.com/TimesSquare/Ring/8582/index.html) as a sub hobby on itself.
Sunday, 15 August 2004
WAB at JP's
We played a game of WAB (my fifth or so, but for most people at the game, it was one of their first, if not the first) over at JP's place on Friday. We used JP's 15mil figures on his Geohex mat, with terrain from various sources and manufacturers.
A horde of unwashed Avar barbarians, half of them on horses, invaded against a peaceful Carolingian Frank army minding its own business (and the vineyards along the Rhine, but that's another matter entirely). Armies were 2000pt each. The Avars were played by Graham W and Steve, while David B and myself took the Carolingians.
After fierce fighting, the game turned out to be an Avar victory, after Graham, true to form, danced his light horse around the Carolingian cavalry trying to come to grips with them, resulting in death-by-many-arrows for the Carolingians. As it turned out, we made some rules mistakes that might have changed the outcome of this fight (then again, it might not have), most notably that _fire & flee_ is not allowed as a charge response when the chargers are closer than half their charge distance to the charge target.
On the other flank, the Carolingian infantry meanwhile put up a good fight against the Avar warbands, initially defeating and breaking them. Unfortunately, the Avars managed to rally and come back to break the Carolingian infantry later on, effectively ending the game.
Much fun was had by all, I think, and even Graham, despite initial misgivings, seemed to enjoy the rules (no doubt swayed by the fact that his beloved light horse antics work just as well in WAB :) ).
I took some photos during the game: check out the [photo report](/games/pics/wab_jp_13082004).
A horde of unwashed Avar barbarians, half of them on horses, invaded against a peaceful Carolingian Frank army minding its own business (and the vineyards along the Rhine, but that's another matter entirely). Armies were 2000pt each. The Avars were played by Graham W and Steve, while David B and myself took the Carolingians.
After fierce fighting, the game turned out to be an Avar victory, after Graham, true to form, danced his light horse around the Carolingian cavalry trying to come to grips with them, resulting in death-by-many-arrows for the Carolingians. As it turned out, we made some rules mistakes that might have changed the outcome of this fight (then again, it might not have), most notably that _fire & flee_ is not allowed as a charge response when the chargers are closer than half their charge distance to the charge target.
On the other flank, the Carolingian infantry meanwhile put up a good fight against the Avar warbands, initially defeating and breaking them. Unfortunately, the Avars managed to rally and come back to break the Carolingian infantry later on, effectively ending the game.
Much fun was had by all, I think, and even Graham, despite initial misgivings, seemed to enjoy the rules (no doubt swayed by the fact that his beloved light horse antics work just as well in WAB :) ).
I took some photos during the game: check out the [photo report](/games/pics/wab_jp_13082004).
Friday, 23 July 2004
Keeping up motivation for painting
In the first six to seven months since [our daughter](http://www.nirya.be/gn/archives/000031.html "GN Archives") was born, I managed to paint only one miniature.
Obviously, part of the reason for this appalingly low output were of course the demands that having a small, needy human being thrust into your care place on your free time. This blog entry is not about that, however -- the real reason behind this low output is due to a lack of motivation on my part. I did have (and still have) free time available, it's just that I used it for other things than painting little tin men.
Recently, I seem to have recovered however, having painted for at least an hour every day over the last week. I think I figured out what motivates me to paint miniatures, and modified my painting behaviour accordingly. The result is the mentioned increase in output.
So, what are my main motivational pushes that set me painting? There's two: playing games and seeing good games played, and actually finishing figures. Of the two, this last is probably the most important, and changing a painting habit that affects this directly has produced the desired effect.
Let's look at these two factors individually.
__Playing games__
Each year after [Crisis](http://users.skynet.be/tinsoldiers/html/crisis04_titelblad.htm "Crisis 2004" ), [Tin Soldiers of Antwerp](http://www.tsoa.be "TSA Website" )'s convention, my painting output rises dramatically (only to drop off again slowly but inexorably). The same effect is produced, although on a smaller scale, by playing games, the best of which in this regard are the [Schild en Vriend](http://www.nirya.be/snv/ "SnV Website" ) revival games.
So, in order to stimulate this effect, I've put some life into the SnV Revival project again, announcing game number three, _Exploring the Congo_, for sometime in September. Organising and playing this game should get me painting again.
__Finishing figures__
This is the big one. I realised only recently that my biggest _oomph_ in painting motivation is simply finishing a figure. When I admire the latest (more or less) beautifully painted miniature, I feel an urge to grab my brushes and paint another miniature, immediately.
With that in mind, I looked over my painting habits, which turned out to be completely antagonistic to promoting this effect. The last couple of years, in an effort to -- paradoxically enough -- get more miniatures painted so I could have a couple of decent armies, I had switched to an assembly line painting style. I would take a number of figures intended for the same unit, e.g. 8 Arthurian spearmen, and paint them at the same time, going in stages: prime, basecoat, faces, ... The classic assembly line painting, in other words, and the one method that is mentioned in every army painting guide out there on the net as the way to get your army painted in anything resembling a decent amount of time.
Unfortunately, the also widely stated disadvantage of this method is that it is a tad, well ... boring. My typical painting session these days is about an hour long. In an hour, you do not paint a lot of things if you're painting 8 figures at the same time. If you're lucky, you can get all the base colours blocked in, or all the tunics finished, or something like that. That means that, on average, you need around 6 to 8 sessions to finish a figure, or 8 figures, in this case. Unfortunately, the fact that you have finished 8 figures at the same time, does not compensate for the fact that it takes that many painting sessions to actually finish a figure. I find that as often as not, my motivation lags halfway through the painting when using this method.
I have now switched back to a different _modus operandi_. Instead of 8 figures in assembly line, I now work on maximum three figures at the same time. Those three figures are of different types (e.g. now I have a musketeer (of three of them fame), a Darkest Africa askari and an Early Medieval British archer on my painting table), and are in different stages of finishing (the musketeer has all base colours blocked in, as has the askari, and the archer has some colours finished). This way, I am reasonably certain to finish a figure every other painting session or so, with the result of keeping up my motivation for painting.
So far, it works a charm -- I have finished four figures in 7 painting sessions of not more than an hour each. Let's hope I can keep this up for a while.
Obviously, part of the reason for this appalingly low output were of course the demands that having a small, needy human being thrust into your care place on your free time. This blog entry is not about that, however -- the real reason behind this low output is due to a lack of motivation on my part. I did have (and still have) free time available, it's just that I used it for other things than painting little tin men.
Recently, I seem to have recovered however, having painted for at least an hour every day over the last week. I think I figured out what motivates me to paint miniatures, and modified my painting behaviour accordingly. The result is the mentioned increase in output.
So, what are my main motivational pushes that set me painting? There's two: playing games and seeing good games played, and actually finishing figures. Of the two, this last is probably the most important, and changing a painting habit that affects this directly has produced the desired effect.
Let's look at these two factors individually.
__Playing games__
Each year after [Crisis](http://users.skynet.be/tinsoldiers/html/crisis04_titelblad.htm "Crisis 2004" ), [Tin Soldiers of Antwerp](http://www.tsoa.be "TSA Website" )'s convention, my painting output rises dramatically (only to drop off again slowly but inexorably). The same effect is produced, although on a smaller scale, by playing games, the best of which in this regard are the [Schild en Vriend](http://www.nirya.be/snv/ "SnV Website" ) revival games.
So, in order to stimulate this effect, I've put some life into the SnV Revival project again, announcing game number three, _Exploring the Congo_, for sometime in September. Organising and playing this game should get me painting again.
__Finishing figures__
This is the big one. I realised only recently that my biggest _oomph_ in painting motivation is simply finishing a figure. When I admire the latest (more or less) beautifully painted miniature, I feel an urge to grab my brushes and paint another miniature, immediately.
With that in mind, I looked over my painting habits, which turned out to be completely antagonistic to promoting this effect. The last couple of years, in an effort to -- paradoxically enough -- get more miniatures painted so I could have a couple of decent armies, I had switched to an assembly line painting style. I would take a number of figures intended for the same unit, e.g. 8 Arthurian spearmen, and paint them at the same time, going in stages: prime, basecoat, faces, ... The classic assembly line painting, in other words, and the one method that is mentioned in every army painting guide out there on the net as the way to get your army painted in anything resembling a decent amount of time.
Unfortunately, the also widely stated disadvantage of this method is that it is a tad, well ... boring. My typical painting session these days is about an hour long. In an hour, you do not paint a lot of things if you're painting 8 figures at the same time. If you're lucky, you can get all the base colours blocked in, or all the tunics finished, or something like that. That means that, on average, you need around 6 to 8 sessions to finish a figure, or 8 figures, in this case. Unfortunately, the fact that you have finished 8 figures at the same time, does not compensate for the fact that it takes that many painting sessions to actually finish a figure. I find that as often as not, my motivation lags halfway through the painting when using this method.
I have now switched back to a different _modus operandi_. Instead of 8 figures in assembly line, I now work on maximum three figures at the same time. Those three figures are of different types (e.g. now I have a musketeer (of three of them fame), a Darkest Africa askari and an Early Medieval British archer on my painting table), and are in different stages of finishing (the musketeer has all base colours blocked in, as has the askari, and the archer has some colours finished). This way, I am reasonably certain to finish a figure every other painting session or so, with the result of keeping up my motivation for painting.
So far, it works a charm -- I have finished four figures in 7 painting sessions of not more than an hour each. Let's hope I can keep this up for a while.
Saturday, 28 February 2004
Single basing vs multiple basing of figures
One of the things that pops up regularly on various wargame related mailing lists is the issue of basing. More specifically, in this case, the basing of 25mm Ancients for Warhammer Ancient Battles. There are two basic camps: base everything singly (i.e., one soldier to one base) versus base troops on multiple bases. In the multiple base camp, the most popular sizes for the bases are those that stick to the DBx standard, basing figures on single DBx bases or on bases whose sizes are multiples of a DBx base.
Both ways of basing have their advantages and disadvantages. Some of these are mutually exclusive, some are present in both basings.
Let's start with the advantages of single bases:
As to disadvantages of single bases, there's just one, but it's a biggy:
On to multiple bases. Advantages:
The disadvantages:
On the face of it, multiple basing seems to come up on top when looking at these advantages and disadvantages. Nevertheless, I am currently rebasing most of my 25mm Ancients to single figure bases, and more specifically slotted bases from Hetzerdog. Why? Because I found that the look of ranks upon ranks of single based figures does appeal to me, and that using single bases makes it easier to stay consistent in basing, as opposed to the multiple bases where one set were finished with static grass and painted Polyfilla, the other with two colors of flocking, and yet a third with painted parrot cage sand. With the single slotted bases, the only viable way of covering the slot is by using Polyfila, so every base will be Pollyfilla and static grass (with the odd bit of extra embellishment).
Special figures will still get their own base (e.g. Bartholomeus Sinister Grassus is based on a custom size base with a duck, his mascot), but the majority of my rank and file are being rebased to single bases.
Currently, a unit of Sub Roman Briton veterans (Late Roman Auxilia), a Sub Roman comitatus (BSG's comitatus) and a unit of pedes are on my modelling desk, on single bases awaiting the Polyfilla treatment. At the least, it keeps me busy :)
Both ways of basing have their advantages and disadvantages. Some of these are mutually exclusive, some are present in both basings.
Let's start with the advantages of single bases:
- Figures are based singly. Well, obviously. This is an advantage because this means that the figures can be used for any ruleset with any basing system, using simple sabot bases. It also means that the figures can be used individually for skirmish games. As my main interest in this period and scale is Sub Roman Britain (or Early Medieval Britain), a period characterised by low inensity skirmish type fighting, this is a definite advantage.
- Looks. This might be a bit of a surprise - it certainly was for me - but singly based figures actually look good. You don't have the diorama effect you can create with multiple bases, but the single bases have their own esthetics, especially if you remain consistent in how you finish the bases.
As to disadvantages of single bases, there's just one, but it's a biggy:
- Transportation, both in game and outside of the game. In a game, it's obvious that moving 36 figures that are based individually is more work than moving 36 that are based six to a base. You can work around this to a certain degree with movement bases, but you have to be careful with how you finish your movement bases to avoid killing the visual appeal of the bases. Transporting figures safely to games is also more difficult for single based figures, as the tradition way of using magnetic sheeting under the bases is less effective with the smaller surface area of the magnets, and if you use slottabases, it's a devil to get the sheets to stick. However, for those with lots of money, rare earth magnets can help in that regard.
On to multiple bases. Advantages:
- Ease of movement and transportation. This is the big one. Whichever way you look at it, it is easier to move 6 figures glued on a stand than to move the same 6 figures based individually. The same goes for transportation - bigger bases means bigger footprint, which means greater stability or greater adhesion when using magnets.
- Looks. Using bigger bases, you can stuff more scenery on the base, effectively making the stand a mini diorama. It is easy to overdo this, however - if every stand in your army has a pool of stagnant water, two ducks and three tree stumps on it, along with enough greenery to hide an army of frogs, you are probably taking this a bit too far.
- Fixed position of figures. This is actually two advantages in one: on a multiple figure base, you can to a certain degree 'protect' certain fragile figures by putting them towards the middle of the base, thus preventing handling damage, and you can position figures in such a way that they fit nicely together &emdash try lining up a pike phalanx in single figures to see what I mean.
The disadvantages:
- Lack of flexibility. The bigger you make your bases and the more figures you put on them, the less the number of different rules systems you can use them for. If your are the kind of gamer who plays one ruleset and one ruleset only, this is actually an advantage, of course, but if you are like me, you want to use your figures for as many different rulesets as you can get your hands on (all in search of the Perfect Ruleset, of course). There is no beating the flexibility of singly based figures.
On the face of it, multiple basing seems to come up on top when looking at these advantages and disadvantages. Nevertheless, I am currently rebasing most of my 25mm Ancients to single figure bases, and more specifically slotted bases from Hetzerdog. Why? Because I found that the look of ranks upon ranks of single based figures does appeal to me, and that using single bases makes it easier to stay consistent in basing, as opposed to the multiple bases where one set were finished with static grass and painted Polyfilla, the other with two colors of flocking, and yet a third with painted parrot cage sand. With the single slotted bases, the only viable way of covering the slot is by using Polyfila, so every base will be Pollyfilla and static grass (with the odd bit of extra embellishment).
Special figures will still get their own base (e.g. Bartholomeus Sinister Grassus is based on a custom size base with a duck, his mascot), but the majority of my rank and file are being rebased to single bases.
Currently, a unit of Sub Roman Briton veterans (Late Roman Auxilia), a Sub Roman comitatus (BSG's comitatus) and a unit of pedes are on my modelling desk, on single bases awaiting the Polyfilla treatment. At the least, it keeps me busy :)
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